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It’s Acrylic —the most suitable material for spa making for the factors of temperature and pressure. Acrylic can bear 180 degree and 2 tons weight pressure.

We have offered 20 kinds colors of Acrylic for you to choose from and they are available on the web pages.

Firstly ,it has been made test strictly before delivery, only passes the test or the test outcome is ok or achieve the industry standard then can make delivery. For details please refer to the user’s manual , it can provide you the full understanding and each step’s operation method.

It may heat water automatically when the water’s temperature is lower than 5 degree. when it happens ,it will start up the water-heating automatically until the temperature reaches 40 degree ,then it will stop water-heating automatically. Of course you can turn off the heater when the temperature reaches what you need , for instance,18 degree or 20 degree.

The full name of FRP is Fiberglass-Reinforced plastics. It’s a optional part of Spa which is normally made of fiber and resin. For Acrylic is crispy, it needs reinforced by something and the FRP is the best choice for this purpose.

Actually,it is unnecessary to exchange water often ,because our Outdoor Spa is equipped with a device can filter the water.With ozone sterilization function and recycle automatically function ,the water is usually clean. But you may exchange water as you like ,we only suggest you needn’t to do such things.

Isolation often refers to warm-keeping materials.We adopt isolate materials to make Spa especially Outdoor Spa to keep warm better, so it can not diffuse heat easily.

For much good-looking of Spa ,we offer a kind of petticoat to beautify the edge and decorate the appearance which is named skirt.The materials of skirt we nomally adopt is wood and PVC ,and each has three kinds colors which is available on web pages.

Depending on usage and type of sanitizing system, a spa or hot tub with well-maintained water, which is treated with non-chlorine shock, should be drained and refilled every two to four months. This is necessary because of the amount of total dissolved solids becomes excessive, making it difficult to maintain sanitizer effectiveness and water balance.

Depending upon bather load, it is generally a good practice to rinse your filter cartridge every other week with fresh water from a garden hose to dislodge hair and other foreign matter. Every 3 to 4 months, and with each water change, your filter cartridge should be soaked in a filter-cleaning compound designed for this purpose. We recommend the rotation method: have two filters on hand, one in the spa and a clean, dry spare. Remove the dirty filter and rinse thoroughly, being careful to spray between the pleats. Soak the filter in a 5-gallon bucket of cleaning solution, overnight or according to the instructions on the package. You can now install your clean spare while the dirty one is soaking. After soaking, rinse again and set aside to dry completely. With this method, your filters will last much longer, and you will never have to wait to use your spa.

No. Automotive waxes are designed for car finishes, and will not generally hold up in hot water conditions. Use a product designed specifically for acrylic or thermoplastic spas such as

Leaks can be hard to find, but a common cause is pump seals. Look for water under your pump. Also check around your heater, pressure switch and all interior plumbing, unions, and connections. If visual inspection does not isolate the leak, you can try adding some food dye to the water. Another method is to allow the spa to sit until the water level stabilizes. There is a good chance that you will find the leak at that level. Yet another method is to fill the spa to correct level, then run it for a full day, marking the reduced water level with a crayon. Then refill, and allow it to sit for a full day with nothing running. If the water drops the same amount in both tests, this tells you that you likely have a shell leak (which includes jet fittings and/or other connections to the shell.) If it dropped more when pumps were running, it is more likely a seal or plumbing leak. Use of a quality leak sealer can save you some repair money. Although not always a permanent fix, they can be effective on many leaks, with the exception being bad pump seals, which will need to be replaced.

A common cause is a jammed or broken impeller, or the bearings may have seized. If the motor shaft can be rotated by hand, then the problem may be a dirty pump switch, defective starter capacitor, burnt motor windings or other electrical problem with the motor.

First, check your filter. Dirty or clogged filters are one of the most common causes of heating problems. Try to operate the spa with no filter in (you may need to push the reset button on your spa pack). If everything works correctly at this point, then the filter was your problem. Next, check the heater indicator light. If it is not glowing, then you are likely not getting power to the heater. You could have a defective or stuck thermostat, high limit switch (check by pushing reset button), pressure switch, or flow switch. If none of these components is the culprit, it may be a bad relay or contactor. If the light is on, but water is not circulating, the heater will not work. If the indicator is on, and water is circulating, then you most likely have a defective heater element.

Several conditions could cause water to overheating, including: a stuck thermostat, a stuck relay or contactor in your spa pack, or even leaving your pump on high speed for an extended period of time. Another possibility is a defective high-limit switch, likely in conjunction with one of the above